WELSH SALTMARSH LAMB AND SEA-SALTY SAMPHIRE are perfect partners for a summer roast. Samphire has a short season, peaking in July. It is available from fishmongers, as well as markets and selected supermarkets. When you can’t get hold of any, serve the lamb racks with braised fennel or a simple watercress salad instead.

Serves 4
2 racks of Welsh saltmarsh lamb, with 6 bones each
sea salt and black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
200g samphire
25g butter
2–3 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped
grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
50g hazelnuts, halved and toasted

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Season the lamb racks with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large ovenproof pan or roasting tray and brown the lamb racks, fat-side down, for 2–3 minutes. Turn the racks fat side uppermost and transfer to the oven. Roast for 15 minutes for medium-rare meat, or 20 minutes for medium. Remove from the oven, cover loosely with foil and leave to rest in a warm place for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the samphire and cook for 2–3 minutes until just tender. Refresh in a bowl of iced water, then drain again.

When you are almost ready to serve, melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. As it begins to foam, add the anchovy fillets, samphire, and lemon zest and juice. Warm through for 2–3 minutes, then add the toasted hazelnuts and a generous grinding of pepper.

To serve, divide the samphire between warm plates. Carve the lamb racks into individual chops and arrange on top of the samphire. Spoon over any pan juices from the samphire and lamb. Serve immediately, with new potatoes or a fluffy mash.

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